南法|馬賽Marseille|穿泳裝、搭遊艇跳進峽灣(les Calanques)玩水趣

 前言 

地中海的顏色是甚麼顏色?以往只覺得藍色的大海真的很美很療癒,但在第一眼看見位於地中海的卡朗格峽灣(les Calanques)時,才知道原來海可以有這麼多的顏色作為它的形容詞,透過自己的雙腳體驗過卡朗格峽灣後,不甘心只從陸地上看見它的部分面貌,於是乎我又發揮了瘋狂搜尋的精神,果不其然,讓我找到能小眾出遊的快艇峽灣行程。

通常要一覽峽灣風貌可以選擇搭船以及健行,網路上也有少許的自駕心得,我自己是選擇前面兩者,但要選擇搭怎樣的船跟從哪裡搭,可真的為難了我好一陣子,首先是要從哪裡搭?通常馬賽與卡西斯在夏季都有觀光船運行;

其次,要選擇怎樣的方案?有人可能覺得,不就是看看峽灣,哪來的那麼多花樣,但馬賽這個地方看起來這麼好玩,喜歡大自然的外國人怎麼可能只坐觀光船?大多數的觀光船又都載好多人!我想要的是像外國影集裡頭的小快艇啊!(而且要美美的)

出於私心並綜合考量後,BLEU EVASION打敗眾多遊船行程脫穎而出,若硬要說這次峽灣遊船的缺點,應該只有港口的位置偏離馬賽市中心,從我們入住的飯店出發大概需要花費1個小時,除此之外非常完美,而且這個公司也提供私人包船,在文章的最後會把所有訊息統整給各位。


我們出發前往港口時,轉搭的19號公車遲遲不肯發車,這種情況在法國遇過兩次,通常司機的休息時間到了,然後請乘客改搭下一班。避免下一班車時間無法趕上預定的開船時間(船公司已敘明逾時不候),所以我們當下立刻改搭一旁的計程車,還好有在約定的時間前抵達。

Bleuevsion的搭船處在Pointe Rouge這處港口,從公車站下車大約還需要走5-10分鐘,沿途有指標所以不用太擔心,拿著網路上預約完回覆的信件到櫃台完成報到即可。


 Bleu Evasion報到、換裝 

來到Bleu Evasion辦公室門口,簡單的貨櫃屋內,只有幾位工作人員、電腦和辦公用品,接著拿出預先印出的報到單,完成報到手續後,櫃台人員告知船長的姓名與船名後,便請我們到碼頭前集合,並建議我們先換好泳裝,因為船上沒有地方換喔;

因此除非不打算下水,不然大家都是將內搭換成泳裝才上船。

今天要帶我們出海的快艇船名叫做「TOP」號,我覺得搭這種小團體包船的好處就是可以有更深刻的體驗,而且還有額外的活動。

我們的船長Nicolas是一個對峽灣地理與歷史非常了解的人,一路上他很熱情的介紹每個地區,而且當他對著船上的法國人用法文講解完後,會再用英文講一次給我跟老公聽(眼神相會的那種)。

經過導覽後,這些峽灣群才不會只是沿著地中海沿岸的美麗石灰岩地形,有些曾經是毒販的聚集地,哪裡是當地有名的天體營,甚至還有深在海底36公尺的峽灣洞穴內有史前人類遺留下來的壁畫…,

若不是有這麼詳細的介紹,我得說這連綿到天邊的峽灣群根本就長的很像,就算我去搭觀光船選擇可以看最多峽灣的選項,回來我也只會記得我去過了,然後回來表示我去了很美的地方。

到了發船時間,確認成員到齊後,船長便邀請大家上船,上船前會被要求將腳上的鞋子脫掉集中存放,包包也會收進座位下的艙位,以免在快速行進中遭海水潑濕或是落海,因為真的會被海水潑到「很濕」,後來老公一度擔心相機是否會出狀況(汗)。


開船後,出海時是順風,而且船長可能要讓大家適應,所以也沒有開得飛快,所以很平穩,雖然船上只有船長一人必須同時負責駕船與講解的工作,但他也不會因為整船只有我們兩個亞洲人而省去英語講解的部份,十分敬業。

搭乘在快艇上,海風吹拂在臉上很是暢快,加上天氣晴朗,海象開闊無垠、風景優美,看得出來大家心情都十分愉悅,手中的相機、手機不停地舉起照相,並且期待著接下來的行程會有怎樣的驚喜。

Bleu Evasion的船依船型不同,大約可坐8~12人,所以位置不會擁擠,怕暈的人可以坐在靠近船尾,也比較不會被海水潑到;若想體驗乘風破浪的刺激感,自然不能錯過海景第一排,但一定要做好溼身的心裡準備。

幽默的外國人也不忘在船頭擺出鐵達尼號的經典姿勢來擺拍,雖然老公說他也有想到,但恥力真的太高了 😆 。

峽灣指的是地中海沿岸經年累月被河川侵蝕的山谷,之後谷地的部份誘因板塊運動,海平面上升將其淹沒,灰白色的石灰岩與地中海的海水交錯沖刷與作用下,行程無數的坑坑疤疤的峽灣與海灣;

也正是由於這種奇特又隱密的天然地形,環境優美,加上當地人重視保育工作,將此處劃為卡朗格峽灣國家公園(Parc National Des Calanques ),野生動植物眾多,因此吸引眾多遊客前來一親芳澤。


 跳進峽灣玩水囉! 

前面有提到,這種小團體包船通常會有額外的活動,其實我也是看上這個而選擇Bleu Evsion!船長導覽峽灣的同時,也正航向適合的戲水地點,當天我們一共被帶到三處玩水,外國人每個人都像是一條魚一樣,當船長停船後就一個個迫不及待撲通跳下海,完全不需要救生衣,暢遊在小艇的四周。

第一處下水點是一處平坦的大海床,深度應該不算深,因為陽光還能照射到底部,因此海水在陽光的透射下幾乎可用清澈見底來形容,碧藍耀眼、光彩奪目,是讓我難以忘懷的海水藍(又有人叫「綠松石藍」)。

船家貼心地提供了浮淺面罩、蛙鏡及蛙鞋等水上用品供乘客使用,而且是免費的喔,甚至還有一台水下推進器讓會潛水的遊客使用,真的是太酷了;看下水的每個人都玩到樂不思蜀,而且每個人都好會游,覺得游泳這技能真該好好學學才是。

透過浮淺面罩看進海底,成群的魚兒們就在你身邊悠遊著,絲毫不畏懼我們這群陌生的訪客,讓人又驚又喜。

我抱著興奮又惶恐的心情下水,只能說平常游習慣泳池的我們對於大海充滿了畏懼,水底下的世界真的超美,滿滿的魚群圍繞在小艇的周圍,海水透明的就像一個龐大的水族箱,我們都在水族箱裏頭游泳。

船長看老公到了第二個下水點還是遲遲不肯下水,好奇問他怎不下水?老公表示自己不是很會游泳,這時候船長露出一種「早點說嘛~」的表情,接著從座位下方拿出救生衣並幫忙穿上,老公盛情難卻,跨出了他人生的一大步,因為他真的很不會游泳,雖然完成過日月潭泳渡(還三次),卻都是緊抱浮標以詭異的蛙式加上強大的意志力完成XD。

有別於在泰國參加過的跳島行程,一上船船長就立刻給大家穿上救生衣,但這艘船上的所有外國人都沒人跟船長討救生衣,雖然不知道是不是常態,我建議若有這方面的需求,可以一上船就跟船長要救生衣,除了安全考量之外,大老遠來了這趟如果是因為沒有穿救生衣下去玩玩水,回家一定後悔!

綜合以上,應該不難理解為什麼BLEUEVASION可以在眾多峽灣觀光船行程中雀屏中選了吧。


航行在峽灣的途中,會看到各種年紀年齡層的法國人在海面上從事各種各樣的休閒活動,往岸上看去,除了常見的登山客、海灘旁戲水、做日光浴的,以及看似難以抵達的峽灣岩石上,竟也有人全裸著做日光浴,對於我們熱切的目光完全不在意,想必陽光比我們更加熱情吧;

海面上更有獨木舟、帆船、海泳及浮淺的玩家等等,對我來說看似非常危險的活動,他們看起來卻是有如日常一般,當下感嘆覺得自己從小到大的成長歷程,有如溫室一般的花朵啊。


來到第二處下水點,藍黑色的海水,水深明顯較前一處深的多,而且旁邊的岸上還有遊客正在一個接一個爬上岩石的高處,在眾人的鼓譟尖叫聲中縱身跳入水中,有人還空翻下水,光在船上看就覺得非常刺激,此外在這裡的海流也比較强,老公穿救生衣下水玩一下子就上來,說還蠻可怕的、感覺水更冰了,但會游泳的外國人還是玩的不亦樂乎 😆 。

可能大家在前面已經游夠本或是稍微累了,這次大家下水沒多久就接連上船休息、拍照,甚至到第三處大家索性都不下水玩了,船長稍作停留講解後就繼續開船。


 壁畫洞穴(Cosquer Cave) 

這裡是老公覺得最印象深刻的景點,因為在一片峽灣群中,竟然有個洞穴遺跡?!原來是幾萬年前海平面尚未上升前,這裡還是一片陸地,那時便有人類居住在洞穴之中,但當海平面上升後,洞穴便被淹沒,入口處更是在水下36公尺的深處。

直到1985年才被發現,並以發現者 Henri Cosquer 名字命名此洞穴,裡面有很多史前壁畫與雕刻,最早的手印痕跡竟然可追溯到兩萬七千年前,真讓人想一探究竟,但首要條件除了要下潛36公尺,還必須通過一條136公尺長的海底隧道才能抵達,我想我們是不可能了,還是看看下方的影片過過乾癮就好吧。

影片|轉錄自Youtube

 熟悉的海灘(Calanque de Morgiou) 

船長將船駛近這片海灣的同時,我和老公一眼認出這就是昨天健行抵達的美麗又隱密海灘呀!從海上看起來一樣讓人心神嚮往,沙灘上有的人也熱情地對我們這邊揮揮手打招呼。

有興趣可以來看看這篇健行遊記喔:
南法|馬賽Marseille|Calanques de Marseille卡朗格國家公園|峽灣健行|隱密的美麗沙灘


 心滿意足,回航 

離開港灣(Calanques de Sormiou)的漁村後,整趟大約3個小時的行程也即將接近尾聲,船長轉向並告知準備駛回碼頭,上岸結束今天的行程;

回程是逆風,所以路程還蠻顛簸的,一直與浪頭對抗,人也沒辦法好好坐著,打上來的海水也特別多,穿在身上的衣服早已經全溼了,一旁的老公更是拼命用毛巾將相機包緊、不停擦拭,神情緊張的樣子讓人覺得好笑 :lol:,誰叫相機就是他的命呢 。

上岸後,大家就地解散,一旁有可以沖水淋浴的空地,可以將身上的海水及鹽分沖掉,也會比較舒服一些,而且擦乾後曬一下太陽很快就全乾了;換上日常的衣服後,我和老公就悠哉悠哉的往19號公車站牌走去,走在路上還遇到船長騎著腳踏車不知道要去哪裡,很熱情地跟我們揮手說再見 😀 。


 遊玩心得 

相較於在馬賽老港花費相對便宜許多的費用,搭乘大型遊艇出海,同樣也能飽覽峽灣風光,但魚與熊掌不可兼得,乘客一多相對就不容易搶到好位置,無法詳細的聆聽導覽解說或是卡到好位置拍照,恣意拍照拍到爽,更遑論跳下碧藍的大海裡與魚群共游了,也因此我們選擇了Bleu Evasion的包船行程;

但不論如何,相信兩種行程都會是很棒的體驗,難得到馬賽來玩,建議不要錯過峽灣行程。


 建議攜帶物品 

  • 帽子:有帽沿可以遮陽的款式,而且要有鬆緊帶可以繞在脖子上或扣住,以免海風太大吹走。
  • 太陽眼鏡:除了能遮陽,更可以預防海水噴濺到眼睛,真的超刺的,特別是船速正快又遇到逆風的同時,坐在前面會一路被海水噴到不行。
  • 防風外套:主要功能是遮陽、擋風,更重要的是在玩水過後,快艇繼續航行時,提供保暖的功用,最好是防潑水的,以免還沒上岸又多了一件溼衣服(笑)。
  • Gopro或防水相機:雖然手邊有一支Osmo Pocket做動態紀錄,但老公仍直喊說如果有Gopro可以拍水下的畫面就好了,大家可以參考參考。
  • 防水袋:若是有帶相機或是手機等電子用品,拍照時一定會用到的東西,建議帶個防水袋,等不用的時候就放到袋子裡,比較不用擔心被海水潑到,也不用費心擦拭。

 EyeGTw攝影小技巧 

  • 白天戶外拍攝,陽光充足,可調整為光圈先決(A/Av模式)ISO調低,快門速度由相機自行判斷,拍攝者即可專心在構圖與取景。
  • 陽光還是太大的話,可以考慮將遮光罩套上,也可以擋點海水。
  • 拍海灣景色及帶到天空景色,想避掉水面反光、讓藍天更藍,帶上CPL偏光鏡,同樣也有部份減光的功能。
  • 想要水下錄影或拍照的話,建議帶Go Pro或是用手機加防水袋
  • 相機免不了被海水濺到,可以攜帶毛巾一條(大條的),隨時拭去機身或鏡頭的沾水,回到飯店最好也好好再整理檢查一次,以免損傷機器。

 如何預訂Bleu Evasion行程 

  • 前往官網 https://www.bleuevasion.com/
  • 點選「Reservation」,選定要預定的日期、時段與人數,以及要搭乘哪種船隻。
  • 接著填寫聯絡資料、搭乘的人員裡是否有10歲以下的孩童及孕婦人數,接著付款。
  • 付款後會收到Email,裡頭會寫明聯絡資料及相關提醒,務必記得印出來,報到會用到喔,若是有相關疑問,也可以以email方式與他們聯繫。

歡迎有空來看看我們的FBIG看看喔,每個禮拜都會有新的文章分享:)

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