本篇文章目錄
前言
「你有聽過「錐麓古道」嗎？」某一天睡前問老公
「那你怎麼沒有提過？」我很質疑地再問，
「因為沒人要跟我一起去阿」（很邊緣的感覺XD）
「太好了！那我跟你去！」
於是我們就來了。
行進在海拔約600公尺左右的錐麓古道時，想起這段與老公的對話，內心真的很複雜，自從走完印加古道後，雖然愛上山林的健行的氛圍，但走的卻都是走距離家不遠的郊山。
從一開始的一路陡上讓人不禁覺得鍛鍊太少，但呼吸到原始森林的空氣卻又讓心情無比雀躍，沿路上陪伴的是樹叢間清脆鳥叫聲，偶然飛過身旁的蝴蝶，還有日治時代留下來的遺跡，以及最後五百公尺驚險刺激的斷崖路段，這一趟旅程雖然讓我大鐵腿，但回想起來卻非常滿足開心。
錐麓古道位於太魯閣國家公園內，屬於登山行步道，與其他景觀型步道(砂卡礑步道、白楊步道)相比，錐麓古道雖然也是人力開鑿，但想了解它的全貌絕對不是走這一趟就能窺探一二，它的故事可能分個上下集也說不完，在文末將簡單介紹錐麓古道的古往今來。
整裝待發
抱著雀躍的心情，明明昨天說要早早入睡卻又拖到凌晨才睡著的我們，鬧鐘凌晨5點1響，立馬跳起來整理行囊，將爬山用不到的東西全部收進行李箱內後退房；
民宿北歐先生因凌晨尚未有工作人員值班，因此老闆很體貼地讓我們將行李留在房內，待房務進來整理房間時再協助拿到一樓保管，讓我們在走錐麓古道時沒有後顧之憂。
圖｜火車站旁的花蓮客運。
出發地點：花蓮火車站
花蓮火車站後站的顯眼的亮橘色建築，就是我們今天要上車的地方「花蓮客運」，先到售票口買一日券（會比上車後買單程票會便宜一點），接著便等待上車，
也許是疫情（COVID-19)的關係，雖然是假日但車上的人屈指可數，不像做功課時別人網誌上說的人滿為患，但我們也因此心情變得輕鬆，在近一個小時的車程在公車上吃著早餐、欣賞沿途風光。（有關買票方式及乘車資訊將於文末附上）
圖｜台灣好行太魯閣線1133A線
順帶一提，如果想要上廁所（不論是小號大號），建議都在火車站這裡先解決，為什麼呢？等等就知道。
圖｜乘客寥寥無幾。
下車地點：燕子口
抵達燕子口站下車後，檢查入山證的票亭便在一旁，先完成繳費並於文件簽名後，工作人員才會協助開門放行，並提醒我們必須在下午3點前回到登山口，以免有安全之虞。
圖｜隧道旁即是檢查的票亭。
前面提到，上廁所最好在花蓮火車站解決，原因除了錐麓古道上沒有任何廁所可以使用，更不方便的是，若是想要在入山前上廁所，就得往布洛灣那邊走去才有廁所，距離有將近1公里，來回就快2公里了，若是尿急，這段路程可真是煎熬阿（笑），如果不急就當作暖身吧！
圖｜入口旁的管制規定，入山前可以再仔細看看。
橫跨立霧溪的錐麓吊橋
剛出發便是一座橫跨溪谷的錐麓吊橋，吊橋配上峽谷美景，真是美不勝收，讓人讚嘆大自然的鬼斧神工，以致於我們竟然出發不到50公尺，就在這裡停留了將近20分鐘、猛拍照，講好的要認真走路呢 😆 ？
圖｜橫跨立霧溪的錐麓吊橋，真是美。
考量我們自印加古道回來後已有一段時間沒有從事較長時間的登山活動，頂多只有爬爬自家附近柴山的幾條簡單健行路線，為了確保安全，除了登山杖沒帶，我們可是做足準備，
登山鞋、登山包、排汗衣物、遮陽外套、帽子、糧食、飲水樣樣不缺，對比沿途遇到緊穿T shirt和牛仔褲就走完全程的年青人，顯得我們大驚小怪（笑）。
圖｜走過吊橋後出現的導覽牌。
錐麓古道沿途有路牌標語指示，路徑也算明顯好辨識，走起來不用太過擔心，不過一路的上坡還是讓我們走到氣喘吁吁，但在適當的時候該休息就休息，抓緊休短不休長的原則，並定時定量補充熱量、水份，途中我們的身體並沒有任何不適。
到大斷崖之前一路上幾乎都是緩上坡的地形，恰巧這幾天花蓮都會下起午後雷陣雨，因此地上都還有點濕氣，特別是有林道遮蔭的路上較為濕滑，行走時務必留意腳下。
圖｜這兩棵感覺很像是迎賓樹歡迎我們的到來呢。
抵達巴達岡
巴達崗的太魯閣語意思是「麻竹」，也有「突擊戰地」的意思，供作玻士岸(今富世)與塔比多(今天祥)間的休憩處。亦是內太魯閣要出閣口與漢人交換食鹽、彈藥與武器的必經之路，不難看出這裡戰略位置的重要性。（參考資料）
靠近巴達岡駐在所的階梯上，散落一地不知名的白色小花，像是迎接每個到來旅人一樣，從文史上得知這裡原是太魯閣族的部落，日治時代這裡除了有警察駐在所、學校等等……，竟然連旅館一應俱全！不難想像這裡當初有多興盛。我跟老公表示如果這裡有旅館的話，我會很樂意來住一晚，
沒想到老公竟回我「妳認真的嗎？」
圖｜以前建築物基座遺跡。
在巴達岡部落稍事休息與拍照後，我們繼續往前，沒多久便抵達巴達岡吊橋，拿出腳架在吊橋上又拍了幾張照片，再繼續挑戰又臭又長的緩上坡。
當天雖然沒什麼太陽，卻還是能感受到強烈的紫外線，再加上沒什麼風，走到大汗淋漓，沒走多少路就會想要喝點水，沒多久竟然就喝完了第一瓶水！
有趣的是，經查資料得知，從燕子口入山這連續兩公里的上坡，很容易讓人打退堂鼓，也因此當年日人戲稱此地為「離緣坡」，意指前來探望日本警察的妻子，受不了又臭又長的上坡路，下山後決定離婚。
這裡有一處好幾塊巨大的岩石交疊而成的石洞，洞穴之大足以容納兩個人在裡面遮風避雨，讓人忍不住想像，過去的人們若是有必要，是否也會在裡頭休息甚至露宿一晚呢？
圖｜感覺就是可以用來遮風避雨的石洞。
經過一處明顯是人為鑿穿的山洞，就知道離大斷崖不遠了，忍不住內心的欣喜，身上的行李好似輕了一點。
穿過山洞有一座和周遭環境不甚相稱的鐵橋，但非常穩固，幾個人走過其中也聞風不動，做功課得知，過去的舊步道常有坍方落石，為了安全考量，才另外搭建這座鐵橋。
仔細看，鐵橋的一旁還有不甚明顯的舊道，下圖照片就是老公試著繞到舊道往橋的方向拍照，提醒有懼高症的人在走過這座橋時應該會有點恐懼。
從舊路往鐵橋的方向拍照
500公尺大斷崖，絕美天空步道
我們終於抵達大斷崖啦，在眼前寬度不到兩公尺的步道旁，沒有太多扶手與護欄，一旁就是幾百公尺的萬丈深淵，沒想到現場看起來竟是如此驚心動魄，還沒走就讓我手汗直流，只看著遠處的風景與眼前的路徑，不敢望向腳邊的懸空處。
前往大斷崖的前段有一個小隧道，裡頭的山壁上有一尊和藹的觀世音菩薩像，是當出為了開鑿山路造成不少人員傷亡，因此日本人在此鑿刻，祈求菩薩能保佑施工期間保佑大家平安、消災解厄，並且安撫在此失去生命的英靈。
我們也虔誠的雙手合十向菩薩鞠躬拜拜，祈求回程路上也能一路平安。
圖｜觀世音菩薩，有時會被以為是地藏王。
圖｜沿途偶爾出現的祈願石，我們也會放上石頭祈求一路平安。
看似狹窄的步道走起來並不全然都那麼窄，部分路段甚至可以讓你兩人並肩同行、相會，再往前走一小段覺得安全無虞後，我們便開始尋找合適拍照的角度與欣賞沿途讓人讚嘆的風景，誰能想到，在懸崖峭壁的旁邊，竟有人開闢出一條如此驚險的道路，當中所耗費的人力物力，肯定相當可觀。
這個角度是我們覺得看起來很有冒險犯難的感覺，但建議要用中長鏡頭來拍，會比較能將人物的主題甚至表情拍得較為清晰，會比起只有帶廣角鏡畫面更豐富一些，本來還有帶空拍機的，但是因為這裡是禁航區，我們也來不及申請許可，因此只好作罷。
圖｜從上面看下去車子向豆子一樣小。
圖｜走到比較狹窄的地方，一定要靠近山壁，抓好繩子小心行走，不要心不在焉，東張西望。
斷崖駐在所
經過500公尺長、驚險刺激的大斷崖後，在往前一點，就抵達了今天的折返點－斷崖駐在所，以前的錐麓古道總長有10公里，但因為部份古道坍塌，修復不易，因此2008年重新開放後，到目前仍只開放到3.1公里處，再往前有標示牌警示請原路折返。
這裡有樹林遮蔽，也設置有一部分座位可供休憩，不會直接曝曬在太陽下，因此還蠻涼爽的，大家大都會在這裡用餐、休息後折返離去，剛抵達的時候，只有兩三個人，不過接近中午用餐時間，抵達的人也越來越多，開心聊天的聲音此起彼落，沒多久位子很快就被坐滿了，晚來的人只好站著，利用一旁的石頭放置自己的物品。
圖｜這裡是斷崖駐在所，還沒到錐麓駐在所呢，網路上有些資訊並不正確。
圖｜可惜不能再往前了，希望哪天有機會修復，這樣我們一定要再來。
圖｜石頭與木板搭成的座位，很舒適呢。
圖｜把講解牌上的歷史仔細看過，更能了解這裡的過去。
用過餐後，再把行李調整整理一番，和老公背起背包準備回程，本來想懷抱著心滿意足的心情，踏著輕快的步伐，輕鬆返程，殊不知現在才是真正的考驗。
雖然前面已經拍了一大堆照片，但是回程看到大斷崖驚心動魄的美景，跟老公還是忍不住駐足停留拍照，還幫好幾會錯身而過的登山客拍照（當然也要拜託他們幫我們拍一下 😆 ）。
圖｜回程看到的又是另外一番風景，真是美。
圖｜近來因為體重直線上升，越來越不愛入鏡的老公XD。
經過上午的緩上坡的折磨後，下坡就是無盡的下坡地獄，前面的下坡體力還算足夠，走起來還能負擔，但是越到後段，膝蓋與大腿不住的發抖，特別是經過比較溼滑的路段時，差點有好幾次差點摔倒，老公也滑倒了一下，還好沒扭到腳踝；
因此真心建議若是不常爬山，或是腳力不是很好的人，還是帶登山杖來爬比較省力，不論是上下坡都會很有幫助，至少在下坡路段，會讓人走得十分安心，四隻腳比兩隻腳穩健多了。
圖｜步步維艱的濕滑路段，怕滑倒只能碎步小心慢走。
圖｜回程的巴達岡吊橋。
圖｜好像沒有終點的下坡。
圖｜看我的厭世臉，就知道有多累，回程下坡真是又臭又長又陡。
錐麓古道心得
大約走了一個半小時，終於又回到入口處，離開前記得要跟登記處說一下讓他們記錄喔，以免以為有人還沒下山，公車站牌就在早上下車處正對面，我們有抓好時間要搭14:22的車，大約再過20分鐘公車就到了，老公趁空檔跑進燕子口裡拍照，他覺得沒時間進去好好看看很可惜。
圖｜在入口的對面站牌等車
錐麓古道歷史
錐麓古道原本是合歡越嶺道的一部分，說到太魯閣這個地區是不能只從日治時代來說的，無論是作為清朝時的附屬地亦或鄭成功時代甚至當時居住在台灣的漢人，都想對這個富含天然資源的寶地分一杯羹，然而世世代代住在這裡的台灣原住民與部落之間卻成為各方角力下的犧牲者。
大正3年(1914年)，日本人發動太魯閣戰役，攻打太魯閣族，為求作戰時效，只好捨棄開闢橫越斷崖的路線，直接繞上高高的錐麓山，修築了軍用快速便道；
然而在這場台灣史上規模最大、歷時三個月的太魯閣戰役結束後，日本政府為了要更全面性、長久的掌控太魯閣立霧溪流域，不能再使用高低落差將近一千公尺，只求快速的軍事道路，於是在大正三年重新開闢從新城到塔比多(天祥)，大約28.6公里的警備道路，而這條警備道路最艱難的路段就是「錐麓斷崖」的橫斷道路。
據說當時連日本來的工人一看到錐麓斷崖的景象都直接打退堂鼓，所以只好徵招各部落的青年，從事打鑿與爆破的工程，有些路段還是從上方將人用鐵索綁住垂降到施工處工作，這條道路施工期間總共有37人不慎墜崖或者因爆破時死亡還有被落石擊中喪生，與其歌頌當時負責開鑿道路的梅澤柾警部，個人認為更應該感念那些被迫從懸崖上垂降、開鑿，危險的工事讓太魯閣族人。
當我走過錐麓古道，縱然讚嘆那腳下高聳險峻的山峰層層相疊，立霧溪就這樣劃過如屏風般的山巒之間的奇幻美景，但心裡更是感謝開闢這段道路的太魯閣族人，這條古道修闢已久卻鮮少有意外發生，我想是祖靈庇佑著每個來見證這段歷史的人們，再也不用區分族群、種族，只要抱著知足與感謝的心情，就能體驗這一路的美景。
如何預定錐麓古道行程
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for 台灣人
- 進入「臺灣國家公園入園入山申請服務網」，看過注意事項後，再最後幾個框框勾選同意，進入下一頁。
- 在「行程」、「申請人」、「領隊」、「隊員」、「留守人」等各項欄位填入必要資訊後，按確認送出。
- 送出後等待審核，若是沒意外的話，幾天後會收到國家公園寄來的通過審核信件，記得要將email保存好，再出發前將入山證列印輸出，當天帶至登山口票亭驗證、繳費（一人200元），沒帶是不能進入的喔！
- 重要！必看！入山申請可於入山日30天前申請，但周末與連假等熱門時段可是非常搶手，若是晚一兩天申請，恐怕只有候補的份，老公為此還特地在可以申請的當天早上7點準時搶票。
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for 國外旅客
- 同樣進入「臺灣國家公園入園入山申請服務網」，上方有「English」選項，申請方式跟中文版差不多喔，英文界面也很清楚好理解。
- 重要！必看！國外旅客唯一與台灣人不同的是，國外旅客可提前申請入山的時間為入山日的35天前～4個月，那就表示，如果在台灣沒有要停留至少35天以上的人，必須要在還沒出發、規劃行程前就必須完成申請了呢。千萬要記得喔！
交通方式
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- 公車：台灣好行-太魯閣線
要走錐麓古道是要事先預約的，若非自行開車,，最方便的方式就是搭乘客運前往，唯一要注意的是公車的時間，因為錐麓古道的入山時間是有限制的，所以我們討論後，認為能配合的公車時間只有2班，回程可視個人腳程來做選擇，行程上不會趕，而且較有彈性。
- 公車：台灣好行-太魯閣線
| 客運名稱：台灣好行-太魯閣線 | ||
| 路程 | 最早班次 | 第二班次 |
| 花蓮火車站→燕子口 | 7：00→8:03 | 8：30→9：33 |
| 燕子口→花蓮火車站 | 13：02→14：00 | 14：22→15：20 |
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注意事項：
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-
- 開車前往：
- 停在往布洛灣遊憩區方向的聯絡道路白線內，再步行至燕子口步道東端錐麓吊橋(約1公里)進入。
- 有的旅客不想從布洛灣大老遠走過來，而燕子口附近也沒有停車格，有些旅客會將車子停在靠近回程公車站牌附近，大概可以停2-3台轎車，但是否有違停之虞我不確定。
- 開車前往：
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