法國|馬賽美食大集合|大吃海鮮拼盤|瘋狂日式迴轉火鍋吃到飽|必吃Bouillabaisse馬賽魚湯|推薦好用餐廳訂位 APP

來到馬賽的第一天,早在網路上搜索一番的我,有家海鮮拼盤是我非吃不可的口袋名單,大家都知道馬賽除了是法國的第二大城之外,另外大家耳熟能詳、一定要喝的馬賽魚湯(Bouillabaisse)和必買的馬賽皂,而且馬賽緊臨地中海,來到靠海的城市就是要吃海鮮呀!

這篇就要來介紹三家我搜查並吃過後、極力推薦的馬賽美食。


AU VIEUX PANIER(無敵海鮮拼盤)

這家餐廳位於馬賽的潘尼爾區 (Le Panier),這裡是馬賽最古老的街區,距離老港有點路程,由於位於港上方的山坡上,所以很多巷弄與階梯,周遭畫廊、小店與餐廳林立,當傍晚的陽光照進巷弄間,坐在斜斜的街道上享用道地的海港美食,休閒度假氛圍滿點。

走在這邊遊客明顯變少,不像老港週邊人滿為患,兩個亞洲面孔走在路上頻頻感受到路人好奇的目光,加上又多是狹窄巷弄,也許是不安全感作祟,走起來不像在亞維儂跟阿爾勒那麼悠閒,反倒有點不自在;

因此我們都盡量挑大條、有遊客同路的路線前往餐廳,還好天色很亮,安全應該不至於有問題(但還是要留意周圍情況)。

從老港看著google map一路走過來,還稍微找了一下路,抵達餐廳已是晚上7點15,但天色還很亮(看照片就知道),還不到法國人吃飯的時間,果不其然餐廳又只有我們兩個人 😆 。

會選擇來這間店,就是作功課時發現這間店在Google、tripadvisor上都有不錯的評價,本來就喜歡吃海鮮的我,當然不能錯過,看過菜單,其實選項蠻單純的,主要是生蠔、蝦子、蛤蠣與螺肉,依不同數量決定價位;

我們先點了海鮮組合拼盤,除了盤面上的海鮮之外,盤子下還有一籠麵包可以吃,因此不用擔心吃不飽,麵包吃完店家還會詢問是否要再來一點;

將檸檬擠出汁淋在生蠔上,完全沒有腥味,咕嚕一聲就滑過喉嚨、吞進了肚裡;冰鎮過的蝦子很好去殼,味道也鮮甜沒有土味。

原本對當中點綴的貝類有點困惑,以為只是博個版面,沒想到蛤蠣根本就是濃縮的生蠔小宇宙,海水的鹹味、貝類的清甜、細膩的肉質一瞬間在嘴裡爆發,我內心覺得太好吃所以才給得那麼少吧!

脆脆彈牙的螺肉適合在吃了軟軟的生食之後替換著食用,搭配美乃滋享用,天啊!完全不想跟坐在對面的老公講話,好幾度想閉上眼睛把這些味道記在頭腦裡。

因為蝦子真的有夠好吃,明明長的就是白蝦的模樣,但味道卻截然不同,讓我和老公意猶未盡,忍不住又加點一盤,無庸置疑,這是我在法國期間吃到最美味的蝦子之一。


SHABOO(日式涮涮鍋吃到飽)

馬賽的第二天,也是來到法國的第十一天,對於西餐實在是吃得好膩,而且小鳥胃老公對於總是吃不完套餐覺得罪惡感深重,而喜歡湯湯水水作為主餐的我,即便老港旁滿滿的酒吧、餐廳,也已暫時無法引起我平常的食慾,

這時,老公突然在叉子APP上發現一間日式涮涮鍋,我真心覺得這是他第一次對於選擇餐廳做了最好的決定。(叉子APP將在文末做介紹)

滿懷愉悅的心情踏進店裡,當時時間才傍晚六點多,離用餐時間尚早,因此店裡座位空無一人,只有在櫃檯忙著備料的服務生,當我們坐下之後,開始認真打量周遭環境時,先是被明明是涮涮鍋店,菜盤卻好像旋轉壽司般在輸送台上輪轉時的畫面覺得饒富趣味時,

接著立即被轉台上的食物盤給Shock到(請看影片),一小撮的金針菇?一片魚肉?三塊貢丸?幾根看似乾掉的豆芽菜,內心充滿問號的同時也覺得有點荒謬,再來覺得有點趣味,但無奈店內只有我倆,不好意思離開,還是坐下來繼續點餐。

後來想想,可能因為旋轉檯面上菜盤太多,放太多除了傷本,也怕食材放久不新鮮吧。

影片|很可愛的旋轉盤,讓人忍不注目不轉睛盯著看。

正所謂「既來之,則安之」!既然轉盤上的餐點份量是如此稀少,有點擔心吃不飽(多慮了),那我們就加點個什麼吧!於是又另外加點了兩道小點。

雖然截至目前內心還是有點不確定,但還是要認真選個湯底,這家涮涮鍋一共有四種湯頭,分別是越南、泰式、日式、素食。

火鍋好不好吃湯頭很重要,當湯底上桌後,消除了我一半的疑慮,確認過飄散在鍋中的氣味,我們沒有踏錯店,吃完後也沒有口乾舌燥想找飲料喝的感覺,以口味而言也算是有中上的水準了。

而且用餐一陣子忽然發現,廚房內場裡負責料理的廚師有一張東方臉孔,雖然不太能確認是否為日本人,但能在異國喝到合乎我們亞洲人口味的湯頭,真的是太棒了。

雖然對於法國人火鍋食材擺盤的方式感到困惑,但不得不說食材很新鮮,尤其是海鮮!這當中又屬蝦子最令我驚豔,煮熟的蝦子每一隻都輕易的可以剝去蝦殼,咀嚼中鮮脆的口感帶出一波又波的甜味,是我在台灣完全沒吃過的蝦味。


轉盤上的麵類一共有三種可以選擇:烏龍麵、日式拉麵、河粉。本以為食材不多最後會以麵食填飽肚子,但我們錯了,光是吃海鮮與肉片就讓我們非常滿足,這兩道麵食是我撐著肚子還是想吃看看煮的,日式拉麵真的就是我在日本吃涮涮鍋最後加點的麵條,搭配上味增湯頭,只能說完美;泰式湯頭搭配河粉,每一口都吸附著濃郁的TOM YUM,我對這間店相見恨晚,一度想來吃第二次。(明明也只待4天)


太久沒有吃到涮涮鍋了,而且味道又如此和我們胃口,而且等晚一點店內客人多了,廚房就開始增加菜色與加快速度,和老公吃了好多肉與鮮蝦,直到吃了個飽才起身離開。

後來在我們吃到一半時有一團看似觀光團的中國遊客,興沖沖地進來店裡來用餐,而且異常興奮,整間店因為她們忽然熱鬧起來;

原來她們也是吃西餐吃到怕了,所以導遊特意帶她們來吃這家,她們一直說真的太開心了,我和老公都心有戚戚焉,看來飲食習慣真的是很難改變呢(笑)。


LES ARCENAULX.Bouillabaisse屬於馬賽的傳統美食

馬賽魚湯被稱作是世界三大湯頭之一,據說是以前漁夫將大眾較不喜愛以及沒有賣完的漁獲,直接帶回家燉煮一鍋而成,當然實際上這一鍋的比例並沒有你我想的那麼簡單,就連鍋內放甚麼魚要怎麼食用也有所謂的魚湯官方指南,再來就是價格很不親民,可是難得來一趟法國,你能不嚐嚐嗎?

在馬賽的第三天,我們入住了坐擁絕老港佳視野的索菲特酒店,平時一定會做功課的我這次完全沒看太多網路上的心得,而是決定直接問飯店的服務人員哪一間才是他們心中的最優秀的馬賽魚湯餐廳!

櫃台有一位曾到在高雄的中山大學學中文的飯店人員,熱情地將他心中的前三名的有供應馬賽魚湯的餐廳寫在紙上給我們做為參考,並且幫我們撥電話預約LES ARCENAULX這間餐廳。


LES ARCENAULX距離馬賽老港地鐵站出口不到500公尺,一如以往,我們依然是最早來用餐的一組客人,店家感覺也正在悠閒的備餐與整理環境,因為店內實在是美侖美奐,因此我們表示我們想要在裡面用餐,店家也表示歡迎,甚至還主動幫我們拍照,非常友善。

如同照片所見,這間店裡周圍是滿滿的書牆,而書架上擺放有很多書籍,但這些書籍並不是裝飾品,而是貨真價實的書籍,而且很多舊書看得出來相當有歷史,應該是特意蒐集來的;

會有如此特色,正是因為餐廳另外一側正是一間書店,裡面當然也有販售一些新書與熱門書,餐廳與書店的結合,是不是很有趣呢?上餐前或是用餐後,不要忘記走過去看看喔。

在拿到菜單後,店內有一位在這裡實習的中國小帥哥,店家請他來服務我們(完全不用擔心語言的問題真是開心),原本想點的Traditional Bouillabaisse必須至少一天前下訂,廚師才會去採購、備料、料理,是很繁複的一道美食,我們卻是最後一天停留在馬賽,無法享用著名的馬賽魚湯,真有如晴天霹靂;

也許看出了我們的失落,他主動推薦了點另一道魚湯,雖然不是菜單上的傳統馬賽魚湯,但料理的方式很類似,也一樣美味,讓我們重新燃起希望,必須給他一個讚。


Penne Rigate pasta, black Tiger prawns, lobster bisque
龍蝦濃湯佐鮮蝦義大利麵

老公點的鮮蝦義大利筆管麵,三隻去殼的大蝦子吃起來鮮嫩有彈性,送進口中能感覺到肉質的Q彈,筆管麵吸附了龍蝦濃湯的湯汁,很有味道,最棒的是份量剛剛好不會太多,老公說這樣才能好好品嚐一道餐點的美味,最後盤子連濃湯都被舀光,一滴都不剩。


Bouillabaisse french fish-soup with saffron
法式魚湯佐番紅花 

雖然名叫魚湯,但跟平時我們看到的湯品有很大的不同,比起平常在台灣喝的薑絲魚湯,馬賽魚湯比較像是一盤集結魚鮮的濃縮精華。

吃法很有趣,其一,侍者會上了一盤烤過的小麵包以及吃馬賽魚湯一定會出現的醬料「rouille」,把醬料抹在麵包上放入湯中,讓麵包吸飽湯之後食用。

其二,若是依照魚湯官方指南的規則,侍者是必須要在客人面前切魚的,也就說魚湯的吃法分為兩個階段,先品嘗湯品後,侍者再將先前介紹過的魚肉分切到盤裡。由於我點的不是傳統魚湯,所以跳過了這個階段,直接裝盤上桌。

魚湯像是濃縮的海鮮濃湯,卻又不是濃稠的口感,雖然美味但對我而言有點鹹,搭配著麵包沾著吃比較適合,網路上的魚湯心得還蠻兩極的,喜不喜歡還得自己試試才知道,這碗魚湯體驗是美好的,我把整碗湯吃光光。


Le Nègre du Narcisse
巧克力冰淇淋、蜜餞橙皮、利口酒

吃完主餐,一定要點個甜點,LES ARCENAULX的甜點有很多口味的冰淇淋可以選擇,我們點的這道巧克力冰淇淋搭配蜜餞橙皮,吃起來酸中帶甜,相得益彰,而且杯子裡還加了一些利口酒,和冰淇淋一起吃入口,一開始酒的苦味很快衝上來,但是很快就讓冰淇淋的甜味覆蓋了,很有層次感,我跟老公說這冰淇淋很有「大人味」。


遺珠之憾:米其林一星餐廳-L’Epuisette

這間餐廳本來是我想喝魚湯的口袋名單,它位於老港的西南方一個叫做Vallon des Auffes的小漁港內,很特別的是整棟建築是坐落在海岸的礁岩上,可想而知環繞在餐廳周圍的景色多令人驚豔,看過一些網路上的心得,評價也是普遍的好,如果有時間又對魚湯有執念的旅人,再多訂一間魚湯喝喝吧!

2020年官網提供魚湯套餐的價格是105€,請提前預約否則會撲空喔!


The Fork:方便又能享折扣的訂桌APP

順便跟大家介紹一個好用的訂桌APP:The Fork,除了能即時閱覽菜單、訂位,在特定的時段還能有用餐折扣喔,超方便,我們在法國有好幾次都是用這個APP找餐廳的,非常方便。

雖然不是中文界面,但操作並不難上手。

  • 登錄帳號(Email註冊、FB、google三種註冊方式皆可)。
  • 輸入目前所在位置,或是按定位標示亦可。
  • 地圖會秀出鄰近位置的餐廳,上面還有評分,可以直接點MENU細看或是下面的SEE LIST逐一閱覽(當然沒有在APP上註冊的店家就看不到)。
  • 若是覺得選擇太多很難下決定,也可以利用Filters來做篩選,比如評比、菜系、價位、人氣等等做選擇來去蕪存菁。
  • 決定要用餐的餐廳後,選定日期,日期選定後,可以看到在哪個時段去用餐會有折扣,通常是非尖峰時間的用餐時間才有。
  • 選擇好時段、確認預約後,在用餐時間前抵達餐廳,並秀出手機APP的訂單給店家看即可,真的很方便;不過結帳時建議確認一下金額,有時候店家一忙,忘記有優惠價格這件事了。

歡迎有空來看看我們的FBIG看看喔,每個禮拜都會有新的文章分享:)

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