秘魯|印加古道第一天|Inca Trail Day 1 – The Happy Day|自助旅行

秘魯 印加古道 Day1

 Inca Trail Day 1行程簡要

  • 起訖點:KM 82 → Huayllabamba
  • 行走距離:12公里
  • 行走時間:5~7 小時(依腳程而定)
  • 最高海拔:3,000公尺
  • 沿途經過遺跡: Llaqtapata Ruins、不知名遺跡
  • 拍攝相機:Sony ILCE-7M2 A7M2
  • 拍攝鏡頭:SONY ZEISS E 16-35mm F4 ZA OSS 、SONY E 55-210mm F4.5-6.3 OSS

集合-庫斯科 

清晨四點半,這次負責帶領我們的導遊已在旅館門口等候我們,將行李寄放後,隨即上車去接另外兩位團員和挑伕大哥們,一行人總共14人通通上車後,這次秘魯蜜月的印加古道健行要開始了!

才清晨五點多,秘魯的街上人車已經不少,似乎都是要去工作。

上車後,高級的賓士保姆車就載著我們前往啟程地,中途暫停了一個類似民間休息站的地方讓大家覓食,這邊還有一個雜貨店,可以在這邊採買補給品,否則上山後不好買,
就算有,價格也高的多,記得健行第三天一罐可樂花了快200台幣(吐血)。

回目錄


 旅程的起點: Km 82 

終於抵達這次健行的起點: Km 82  ,大哥們將這四天要用的物品從車上卸下後,開始很有默契地分配物資並且放到各自負責的大包包內,除了敞篷、水、食物、睡袋,竟然還有一支瓦斯桶,我還以為是用罐裝瓦斯處理耶,太猛了!

目前祕魯政府單位很關心挑伕們的安全,不會讓每個人負重太多,一個人最多只能背一定的重量,而且有檢查哨秤重,超過只能多請挑伕或是遊客自己背,除了保障挑伕的權益,也是幫自己的人民增加工作機會,很不錯哦。

行前大合照,除了我們四個臺灣人,另外就只有兩位烏拉圭的美女,其他就是8位挑夫與廚師大哥,總共14人;對比其他動輒超過50人、還配發一人一件制服的大團,我們真的很迷你,卻還是常常走最慢(遮臉)!

第一天的路上還有很多民房,會遇到當地居民進出,除了自己背物資,也有運用驢子或馬來運送,畫面還蠻有趣的,不過建議盡量近拍當地人,有可能被要求付1 Sol拍照費,後來就盡量不拍人了0rz…。

秘魯弟弟很害羞,看到我在拍,一直把頭偏到另一邊躲鏡頭,整個人都快要摔下馬了XD,倒是後面的家人笑著跟我說要付一元索爾喔,但是我說真的沒有一元在身上,她也就笑笑的離開了,真的是有點不好意思…。

兩匹正在休息吃草的馬,不怕生,只是顧著吃草,好奇靠近拍也完全不理我。

這道轉彎的景蠻漂亮,導遊讓我們在這休息一下,可能是第一天看到什麼都新奇,拿著相機猛拍,導遊跟我說他覺得第三天的景色才是最美的,要我節省一點電力。

但人就是這樣,總是怕錯過什麼,跟導遊說不怕,我有帶三個電池和兩個行動電源,雖然真的有點重,導遊也是笑笑的說好吧。(這四天我只有下雨和睡覺時才把相機收起來)

因為團員們來自兩個不同國家,我們西班牙語不行,另一位烏拉圭團員英語也還好,所以導遊必須在每次講解時翻譯成兩種語言,但他非常有耐心,總是不厭其煩的向我們說明,感受到他對這份工作的尊重與熱愛。

路邊沿途會經過的攤販,這時候的選擇還蠻多的,甚至還有賣當地紀念品,不過除非很有特色,在這買紀念品的人可能不多,因為爬完這四天在熱水鎮(Aguas Calientes)要買多少有多少。


 遺跡「Llaqtapata Ruins」 

來到了一處大型遺跡,名稱是「Llaqtapata Ruins」,腹地很大,但導遊說並沒有被好好的復原,一直以來都是這樣子。

這是健行的看到的第一處遺跡,覺得非常新奇,在這邊拍了不少照片,可惜無法靠近一親芳澤,不過沿途還是會經過不少遺跡,值得期待。

老婆和好朋友,兩個人為了這次的旅程,一起買了同款的背包與登山鞋,對於愛美的人來說,就連登山也要美美的才行(雙手一攤)。

附帶一提,網路上會看到有人說不需要為了四天三夜的健行浪費錢買只穿一次的登山裝備,還誇口只要穿羽絨衣與運動鞋就能完走印加古道;

個人覺得這是很不負責的說法,在這次健行我們遭遇了下冰霰、零下低溫,若不是有砸錢買Gore-tex外套、黃金大底登山鞋,在又溼又冷高海拔山區會有什麼後果,真的不敢想像;

自己的生命安全難道不值得花點錢買裝備,要跟變化莫測的山上天氣賭?

天氣實在是很不錯,走起來心安不少,沿途大家邊走邊聊天,我也是盡量不要落後大家太遠,邊拍邊跟上大家的腳步,想起上次這樣悠哉走在山上已經是好幾年前的嘉明湖。

建議一定要租借登山杖,一開始老婆也是很排斥使用登山杖,覺得卡卡(不會用的人的第一反應),但上手後才知道登山杖的好,畢竟四條腿一定勝過兩條腿的阿!(登山杖使用教學影片請點我,看完還得事前充分練習才行)


 午餐營地「TARAYOC」 

終於來到今天中午用餐的營地(TARAYOC),此時早已飢腸轆轆和感到些許疲憊,趕緊三步併兩步,看看我們的營區在哪裡。

每個團體都會找好自己的營區,而大哥們早就抵達並且紮好帳篷、備好桌椅、洗手盆等待團員抵達,確認團員們都差不多抵達後就會開始煮菜,確保大家都有熱騰騰的飯菜可以享用,當然如果走太慢的團員,也無法等待您抵達,導遊就會叫大家開動了。

 菜色如何呢?

沒想到第一餐竟然就有炸魚可以吃,雖然這也是這幾天唯一吃到的魚XD,應該是魚壞的比較快,所以要盡早處理;

整體上餐點很不錯,有魚有肉也有菜也有湯,甚至還有飯後甜點!而老婆的最愛是中間小碗的莎莎醬,超級開胃又下飯。

營養絕對有均衡到,至少每一樣我吃起來都還蠻習慣的,當然也有不愛吃或不敢吃的,但真的是變化豐富,絕對不會讓你餓到。

比起自己在玉山時只能泡泡麵、吃麵包餅乾果腹,美味太多了XD。

吃飽後,約莫有半小時的午休時間(視情況而定,晚到的人休息時間自然被壓縮),每個人會選擇在草地上或坐或躺小憩一會兒,下午還有好幾個小時要走,得抓緊時間休息;

辛苦的挑夫大哥們則是不得閒,趕緊將所有設備收一收後,就得繼續往晚上的營區前進了,看著他們背負那麼重的行李卻依然健步如飛,走沒多久就連車尾燈都看不見,真的是相形見絀阿,慚愧。

按導遊大哥解釋,挑伕的工作在當地來說算是薪水很不錯的,年輕體力好的通常都會選擇,他年輕時當挑伕也爬過不少大山;等年紀大了、累積經驗後,就會開始當導遊帶團,如果會講不同語言的話,會更吃香。


因為爬升高度不高,路途也不長,因此是最輕鬆的一天(the Happy day),不過還是得慢慢適應高度,一步一步慢慢走,累了就休息一下沒關係,畢竟還有三天要走。

導遊也很貼心,每到一個定點都會等我們六人會合,用雙聲道講解遺跡以及接下來的路況,再繼續往下走;第一天他都幾乎走在我們的身邊,觀察每個人的腳程和狀況,後面幾天才放心自己往前走,到定點等我們。

忽然間路上走出來這隻大公牛,角很尖看起來不太好惹,不過還好沒有攻擊性,小心翼翼經過牠也沒什麼反應,可能牠對於遊客已經見怪不怪了,是我太大驚小怪。


 休息點-營地「HATUNCHACA」

不久後,我們又走到另一處營地(HATUNCHACA),很多隊伍也在這邊稍作休息。

健行途中可以看到很多不同國家的遊客,但亞洲面孔偏少,因此我們四個常常成為大家目光的焦點,在市區更是如此,甚至秘魯人還會跟我們主動打招呼;

來參與的遊客大多感覺很正面陽光,雖然彼此不認識,但走在路上照面時都會簡單Hi一下、打個招呼,有時還會小聊幾句:D。

忽然導遊在一間民宅門口對著我們招手,要我們過去看看,往內一瞧,裡面有好多隻又肥又可愛的天竺鼠在裡面跑來跑去!正當我們納悶養天竺鼠的用意時,導遊跟我們解答了:

這些天竺鼠養肥了都會殺來吃哦!在祕魯是一道傳統佳餚,名稱叫Gui(唸起來是台語的『鬼』),真是太驚人了。(好想跟千尋一樣對牠們大喊:不要吃太胖喔!會被吃掉!)

後來回到庫斯科朋友有點來吃,據說非常美味,老饕有機會來祕魯可以找間名店試試..。

不時往回看,看著遠方的山景,總會有一種如夢似幻的不真實感,這時候手機訊號已經都收不到了(所以直接開飛航省電),真的是與世隔絕,陪著你的只有身邊的人和俯拾即是的風景。


 第一晚的營地「Huayllabamba」

約莫下午五點前,終於順利抵達今晚的營地(Huayllabamba),我們四個魯肉腳都很開心,不過在導遊的提醒下,還是得趕緊整理、簡單盥洗後換上晚上的衣服,準備吃晚餐;

山上天色暗得快,趁天色未暗比較好行動,手腳務必要快,不然等天黑就只能靠頭燈摸黑行動,也有安全上的疑慮。

大哥們一樣已經緊鑼密鼓地在架帳篷和張羅晚餐,真的是辛苦,很感謝他們;不過他們就像台灣的原住民一樣,感覺天性樂觀,工作很認真,空閒時就一群人聽著手機音樂在旁邊嘻嘻哈哈,很難不被他們歡樂的氣氛感染。(體力也太好XD)

 關於帳篷與營地 

導遊有分配每個人所屬的帳篷(2人一帳),如果想要交換的話可以私下溝通,不過我們剛好是三對,很好處理。

帳篷內的空間很大,兩個人加上行李綽綽有餘,帳篷內的設施有枕頭、睡墊。

當然如果要自行攜帶也是可以,看很多外國人行李、睡袋、睡墊都是自己背,完全不假他人,真的是很猛,當然費用也可以節省不少。

有人可能會好奇,參與印加古道的團隊那麼多,各團營地是如何決定的?

導遊是說各旅行團之間基本上會有分配,但是可能我們真的太小團了,這幾天我們都是選到偏內側或比較小的營區,雖然沒有什麼不便,但是比起大團,需要多走幾分鐘路才能到達廁所或主要路口,未來有想要報團的人可以參考一下。

題外話,老婆竟然偷偷將串燈塞進行李,為的就是晚上能營造蜜月的氣氛並且拍張美美的照片,連導遊和挑夫們都睜大了眼睛看著這一切,並好奇地伸手摸了摸串燈,在爬完四天三夜後我們將它當成禮物送給了導遊。


 本日心得 

真的是Happy Day,空氣很好,風景優美,有導遊的專業帶領和挑伕大哥們的優秀服務,讓我們覺得很放心,出發前的不確定感可以說是一掃而空。

好在高山症已經在庫斯科發作過,身體應該已適應高海拔氣候,12公里走起來沒有什麼身體不適的地方,但晚上睡前還是會吞半顆高山症藥和喝古柯茶預防。

最讓我擔心的老婆狀況也很不錯,雖然偶爾抱怨幾句(妳揪的餒),但看得出心情很好,能和另一半一起做一件過去想都沒想過的事情,真的是很神奇,也覺得無比幸福。

明天,The Diffacult Day,
要爬升到4200公尺的Dead Woman’s Pass,加油!

歡迎有空來看看我們的FBIG看看喔,每個禮拜都會有新的文章分享:)

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  40. Hey! I just wanted to ask if you ever have any problems with hackers?

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    1. I’m sorry this bad thing happened to you.But I have no experience of being hacked and I can’t provide you any help.Wish you all the best

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